Background

This page to discover Corsica

CORSICA

The island of beauty that deserves its nickname...

Once is not custom as they say, so this year we decided to go on vacation in France and more exactly in this beautiful island that is Corsica, why go far when it's at hand !!!

Tour details

In addition we went on an adventure, well if you want, because we had only booked the boat and nothing else!.

At this time of year, there are still few tourists on the island and we had greater freedom to stop where we wanted to have lunch, sleep or visit.

Ajaccio

So we left with our vehicle and our suitcase.

The crossing is made from Toulon towards the port of Ajaccio with the company Corsica Ferries from which we bought our tickets directly on the web (a nice saving!).

The crossing was very pleasant despite a light mistral that we barely felt.

Propriano

As soon as we got off the boat, we took the road to Propriano (Icone) to look for a hote and spend the night there.

It was quite easy to find accommodation despite the Ascension.

The road connecting these two cities is in good condition, you can take your time and take some pictures without any problem: the islanders do not drive very fast and are rather tolerant with the poor mainlanders that we are.

We dined on the port with the setting sun.

Sartène - Bonifacio

The next morning, we hit the road again towards: Sartene .

After a short visit, we leave to join Bonifacio (Icone).

All along the way you have to stop to look at all these magnificent sites and with the sun, it works wonders.

The city itself is quite nice with its port and shops (mainly restaurants), but the highlight is the visit to the old town which overlooks majestic chalk cliffs.

A small train (every 1/2 hour) brings you to its center after a short journey through the marine cemetery and old streets.

The rest of the visit is to be done on foot to try to see everything: shops, houses and streets from another age.

Porto Vecchio

the next town is Porto Vecchio (Icone).

This city is really adorable, especially its center where you can sip a drink in peace.

It is a city of idleness which has a slight resemblance to ST-Tropez.

You can walk slowly through its small streets with a stop in the church and a few shops.

Saint Lucia of Talano

The hinterland with Saint Lucia of Talano or Levie are a delight for the eyes, one could say deep Corse without being pejorative, so beautiful are these large villages on the mountainside, one breathes serenity there.

Aleria - Corte

We follow the eastern coast to Aléria , then branch off due west for Corte (Icone).

This city is in the center of the island and allows many walks by car or on foot, we are spoiled for choice.

The town itself is fairly unremarkable, Place Paoli and the street of the same name are the most interesting as well as the citadel is perched very high.

A place to do imperatively is the Restonica Valley , there is no qualifier, the road is sometimes narrow, but it's another world and it's beautiful!!!

Bastia

Then we go back down to the coast, towards Moriani, to reach the prefecture of Haute-Corse : Bastia (Icone)

A walking tour is necessary to see the old town, its lively little streets, the citadel, the port and some beautiful churches.

We always follow the seaside to visit the finger of the island with a lot of photo stops to immortalize a large number of landscapes and situations.

Saint Florent - Ile Rousse

Finally arrived in the town of St-Florent (Icone).

This small town is very pretty and the surroundings are to be discovered between the beauty of Balagne and the nudity of the Agriates desert .

Next break further south at Ile Rousse, another very beautiful place to see with the red of the granite (hence its name!!).

There is a pretty port and a covered market where all the regional products of this part of Corsica are sold.

Calvi

The west coast continues with the town of Calvi (Icone), capital of Balagne with its citadel anchored in the sea and its sloping streets to reach it.

A very beautiful church and a beautiful port will complete the visit.

Then, we intended to go to Porto but the seaside road was cut off near Galéria by a landslide of rocks, so we had to retrace our steps after a night in this charming little village.

This detour took us through Ponte Leccia, Calacuccia et Evisa, quite an unplanned ride, but quite nice, especially with the few people on the roads.

Porto

On our arrival in Porto (Icone) we go directly above the city, to have an overview of the gulf, its beach, the rocks and its square tower (the only one on the island).

We quickly go to visit the Calanches de Piana , this coast is tortured with jagged rocks of ocher color, but it seems that they are more beautiful seen from the sea.

The road winds up to Cargese, a town of Greek origin, as evidenced by the Orthodox church facing a Latin church.

Ajaccio - Sanguinaires Islands

After these short visits, we set off to discover the seaside resort of Sagone, where we stop to walk on its beautiful beach.

And to finish back to square one our return city: Ajaccio (Icone) and also some photos, it is the city of Napoléon, Tino Rossi with its citadel, its museums, its port, Place Foch and the cathedral.

Not far from the city, is the Sanguinaires , small groups of islets of red rocks which form the entinnels at the entrance to the gulf.

In conclusion, the island deserves an in-depth visit to discover some secrets and you will leave with images in your head!

Weather report

BASTIA Météo

What there is to know

History

Occupied since the 9th century BC, Corsica has been a land coveted by the great powers since Antiquity. While the Phoenicians established trading posts there, the Phocaeans set foot on the island as early as 565 BC. Corsica was then a stopover on the way to Greece. The Phocaeans also import their culture, in particular vines, wheat and even urban infrastructure. However, they did not really penetrate inland and had to face Carthaginian incursion attempts. These manage to dislodge them from the following century.

In 259 BC, it was Rome's turn to covet Corsica. However, the population showed exceptional resistance against the Republic. It took nearly a century to pacify the island. A relatively stable and prosperous period followed.

In the 4th century, Corsica was not spared by the barbarian invasions due to the decadence of Rome. The Vandals cross the island which sinks into a difficult economic situation. In 533, Byzantium drove out the Vandals but its tutors were hardly fairer with the local population. So that the Pope is worried about the fate of the Corsicans and installs several bishoprics. In 755, Pepin the Short confirms the power of the Papacy. However, this one is incapable of preventing the incursions of the Saracens

In the 11th century, the Church decided to entrust the administration of Corsica to Pisa. But the latter is quickly thwarted by the ambitions of Genoa. For a century, the two Italian powers disputed the domination of the island, until the victory of Genoa during the battle of Maloria, on August 6, 1284.

Corsica seems subject to the games of the great powers, yet its population does not renounce its identity. Thus, if Genoa dominates the island for five hundred years, it is at the cost of endless struggles. Against the House of Aragon on the one hand, which has the preference of the Papacy. However, the latter has not completely renounced the island of beauty: the Pope had ceded the administration to Pisa but the territory is theoretically in his possession.

Inside, the Corsicans leave little rest to the Genoese, disputing the territory while forging alliances with European powers. In fact, Genoa ends up conceding the administration of the island to the powerful Office of Saint-Georges. This one will abandon it for the first time to the Duke of Milan before taking it back fifteen years later. Finally, the Office of Saint-Georges engages in an uncompromising repressive campaign to pacify the territory. We are then in 1478. After two hundred years of Genoese presence, calm seems to have returned.

But the respite will not last a century. France, in struggle with Spain for the domination of Italy, gives its support to Sampiero D'Ornano, heir of the exiles of 1478. He lands in Corsica in 1553 and proclaims the attachment of the latter to France in 1556. But, in difficulty against the Spain of Philip II, Henry II ceded Corsica to the Genoese three years later in the Treaty of Cateau-Cambrésis.

During the following centuries, Corsica did not experience any major upheavals. However, the Genovese presence is hardly accepted. Indeed, in addition to significant tax pressure, sometimes unfair justice, the local population is denied administrative positions. At the beginning of the 18th century, the economic situation became more complicated. In 1715, fearing unrest, Genoa prohibited the carrying of arms, going against a very established local tradition. In addition, to replace the taxes attached to this right, it introduces an exceptional tax. When in 1729, the governor renewed this tax in a situation of scarcity, riots broke out across the country. Initially on the sidelines, the nobility joined the people and tried to find allies in Europe. While no one responds to the Corsicans, Genoa finds an ally in Austria. The Emperor lands his troops but they are pushed back. Genoa then made concessions in 1732 in the Peace of Corte.

But this situation does not suit the Corsicans who proclaim their independence in January 1735 and set up a constitutional monarchy led by the German aristocrat Von Neuhoff. He only stayed in power for nine months while France signed a treaty of assistance with Genoa in 1738. After a first unsuccessful attempt in 1739, France crushed the separatists in 1740.

However, France ends up taking too much freedom in Corsica for the taste of the Genoese. They demanded the departure of the troops in 1752. Corsican activism then resumed with a vengeance, especially when Pascal Paoli landed in April 1755. A few months later, on July 14, 1755, he proclaimed independence.

Giving the country a republican constitution, he initiated a development program for the country in all areas: economic with the creation of a currency, territorial with the designation of Corte as the capital or even cultural with the creation of a university in this same city. Unable to dislodge the Genoese from Calvi, he built Île-Rousse in order to have a port.

Genoa is only maintained in a few strongholds and decides to entrust the administration of the island to France for a period of ten years. This is the Treaty of Versailles of 1768. The following year, royalty waged war against the separatists and defeated them at the Battle of Ponte-Novo, May 9, 1769. Genoa will never be able to repay France for expenses incurred. In 1789, in the name of the principle of self-determination of peoples, Corsica becomes French.

However, as it prepares to provide the metropolis with one of its historical figures, Napoleon Bonaparte, Corsica has some difficulty in aligning itself with the centralized model of the Jacobins. She wants to preserve her identity. Paoli, who returned to govern the island after the Revolution, seceded from the capital, drove out Bonaparte and allied himself with England. But the episode will be short-lived. From 1796, Corsica is again French.

Always reluctant to dominate, Corsica quickly found emotional ties with France, in particular thanks to admiration for Napoleon Bonaparte. Becoming a department in 1811, it remained firmly attached to Bonapartism throughout the 19th century, and even in the 20th century for Ajaccio. During the First World War, many Corsicans joined the army. During the Second World War, it was occupied by the Italians but, thanks in particular to its resistants, it became the first French department to be liberated.

After Algerian independence, Corsica welcomes many pied-noirs who contribute to modifying its economy. But the beginning of the 1970s marked a new era with the revival of the independence movements. Many attacks are perpetuated there, the most serious dating back to 1998 with the assassination of the prefect Claude Erignac. These events are notably at the origin of attempts at a political settlement of the situation, which have not always been successful. If the Process of Matignon is promulgated in 2002, the referendum of 2003 on the reform of the Corsican institutions is refused at the time of a referendum.

Policy

In 1992, the region of Corsica became the Territorial Collectivity of Corsica (CTC), since which date it has had a special political status which gives it greater political and administrative autonomy compared to other French regions.

The Assembly of Corsica is the deliberative body of the community. It is made up of 51 councilors elected for four years by direct universal suffrage, by two-round list ballot. The last elections took place on March 14 and 21, 2010.

It votes the budget and the regulatory acts falling within the competences of the community. It can also propose to the French government to modify legislative and/or regulatory provisions relating to the island.

Its president, elected from among its members for the duration of the mandate, has since 2010 been Dominique Bucchini, from the French Communist Party.

Geography

Corsica is a mountain in the sea. Its average altitude of 568 m makes it the highest of the western Mediterranean islands. Many lakes and the aspect of certain valleys testify to the past existence of glaciers. Its coasts, made up of more than a hundred islands, confront us with a vast archipelago. Its coastline has many ponds and swamps. It is 180 km long from north to south and 82 km at its widest point. Its area is 8,680 km21.

From Emmanuel Arène, Member of Parliament for Corsica, during a speech in the Chamber on the Corsican problem: "Yes, but what you did not know and what I was going to tell you is that Corsica is an island surrounded by water on all sides! ».

The eastern facade is bathed by the Tyrrhenian Sea, the north by the Ligurian Sea, and the western facade by the Mediterranean Sea.

Economy

Corsica's economy has long been dominated by agriculture and livestock, but now it is mainly made up of trade and the tourist industry (hotels, leisure). Corsica is one of the poorest French regions. After the crisis of the 1990s, Corsica is clearly doing better and is progressing on all fronts, but its situation nevertheless remains fragile. In 2003, its per capita GDP was still 11.5% lower than the average for French regions. Corsica has a very typical economy: little industry, weak agriculture and a significant weight of tourism, administration and construction.

Source : Wikipedia (In french)

Additional Information

When to leave?

In spring, summer or autumn, finally as soon as the weather is nice, because the weather is practically the same as on the continent... With a few degrees more.

Transport

The boat or the plane for the crossing, car or motorHome to visit!!

Sleep / Eat

Again, no worries, everything is more than correct. Everything is clean and modern, the food is also very good (but never forget to eat the speciatites!!).

Useful websites
Tourist Office

The Art of Food

No special soups

Carciofi
Artichokes Ingredients
30 small purple artichokes. 4 lemons. 250 g brocciu. tarragon, chervil, savory. basil, parsley. salt, pepper, paprika. 20g of butter. 1 C. at s. of flour.
Preparation
Cut the stems of the artichokes, remove the first leaves and free the bottoms by cutting the other leaves Remove the hay with a spoon Lemon the bottoms to prevent them from blackening Cook them in salted boiling water in which you will have added 1 tablespoon of flour dissolved in l/2 glass of water and the juice of 2 lemons The cooking time depends on the size of the artichokes, count between 15 and 20 min Wash, sponge, chop the aromatic herbs, take a teaspoon of chervil, tarragon, savory, parsley and 2 teaspoons of basil, add them to the brocciu, mix with a fork, sprinkle with a pinch of paprika Stuff the funds with this mixture, place them in a baking dish,place a knob of butter on each artichoke Bake in a preheated oven, medium heat 210° (7 on the thermostat) for 20 mins Serve.
Orata
Sea ​​bream Ingredients
1 bunch of fresh mint. 1 C. c. fennel seeds. 1 lemon. 2 tbsp. c. of aniseed alcohol. 3 sea breams of 500 g each. 300 g brocciu. Olive oil. Salt
Preparation
Ask your fishmonger to scale the sea bream and prepare them in the wallet (that is to say by emptying them through the gills and cutting them dorsally) Preheat the oven to 180° (th. 6) Chop the fresh mint reserving a few leaves for decoration Cut the lemon into strips Reserve Mix the fresh brocciu with the chopped mint, two tablespoons of olive oil and the aniseed alcohol Salt and pepper Stuff the sea bream. Lightly oil the fish Bake for 10 min. (th. 6) Arrange the cooked sea bream on a presentation dish Sprinkle with fennel seeds Decorate with slices of lemon and a few mint leaves This dish is served with saffron rice.

Cotolette di vitella
Shepherd's Cutlets Ingredients
1 tbsp. at s. olive oil. 12 very thin veal cutlets. 250 g brocciu. 30g of butter. 6 sprigs of thyme. 6 bay leaves. 6 slices of lonzo. Salt pepper .
Preparation
Dry the zucchinis carefully before cutting them into thin slices Steam them al dente Leave them to rest so that they release their water Meanwhile, mix the garlic, basil leaves, salt and the pepper Put the zucchini in a gratin dish, sprinkle with sheep's cheese In a large bowl, beat the eggs, the whipping cream, the garlic and the basil leaves Pour everything over the zucchini Bake in a hot oven at 210° (th. 7) for 15 minutes, then at 180° (th. 6) for 30 minutes When the gratin is golden brown, it is cooked This dish is just as good hot as it is cold It becomes a main course served with a salad, but accompanies pleasantly all roasted meats.

Gratin di zucchine
Zucchini gratin Ingredients
1.2 kg of courgettes. 1 bunch of basil. 2 cloves garlic. 200 g of fresh sheep's cheese. 4 eggs. 500 g whipping cream. Salt pepper.
Preparation
Dry the zucchinis carefully before cutting them into thin slices Steam them al dente Leave them to rest so that they release their water Meanwhile, mix the garlic, basil leaves, salt and the pepper Put the zucchini in a gratin dish, sprinkle with sheep's cheese In a large bowl, beat the eggs, the whipping cream, the garlic and the basil leaves Pour everything over the zucchini Bake in a hot oven at 210° (th. 7) for 15 minutes, then at 180° (th. 6) for 30 minutes When the gratin is golden brown, it is cooked This dish is just as good hot as it is cold It becomes a main course served with a salad, but accompanies pleasantly all roasted meats.

Strozzapreti
Storzapreti Ingredients
200g of spinach. 200g of chard. 300g of brucciu. 2 eggs. a little savory. Salt, pepper, nutmeg.
Preparation
Cook the spinach and chard leaves Then chop them Add three times their weight of brucciu, 2 eggs, savory, salt, pepper, nutmeg Make small dumplings Poach these dumplings in salted boiling water for a few minutes Drain Arrange them in an oiled dish, cover them with meat juice Sprinkle grated parmesan on top and cook in the oven.

Stufatu di cinghiali
Wild boar stew Ingredients
1.5 Kg wild boar (boneless). 1 liter of red wine. 100g onions. 100g carrots. 2 cloves garlic. 1 bouquet garni. 1 dl olive oil or 100 g lard. 50g of flour. 6 cl of brandy. 1 Kg of chestnuts. 1 sprig of fennel. Salt, ground pepper.
Preparation
The day before, pare and cut the meat into pieces of about 50 g Peel and finely chop the carrots and onions Add the minced garlic and the bouquet garni to make the aromatic garnish Put the pieces of meat to marinate for 24 hours in a skullcap with red wine, brandy, aromatic garnish and ground pepper The same day, cook the stew Remove the pieces of meat from the marinade and drain them well Also drain the aromatic garnish In a casserole dish , heat the fat (oil or lard) and brown the pieces of wild boar Add and sweat the aromatic garnish Moisten with the marinade, the eau-de-vie, add the garlic and the bouquet garni Salt, pepper Cook slowly covered, 2 hours, while watching the evaporation of the sauce:if it thickens too much, add a little water Adjust the seasoning Cook the chestnuts in salted water with the fennel for about 30 minutes Peel them Add them to the stew and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes Serve very hot in a vegetable dish Tips: to easily peel the chestnuts, put them in the microwave for a minute, in small quantities, in a closed plastic box.
Sciacci
Sciacci Ingredients
600 g of fresh brocciu. 250 g of shortcrust pastry. 150g of sugar. the zest of 2 oranges. the zest of a lemon. 2 tbsp. at s. brandy. Lard or oil depending on the method used.
Preparation
On a floured work surface, roll out the dough thinly Using a cookie cutter, cut out 6 circles In a bowl, mix the brocciu, eau-de-vie, zest and sugar Divide the mixture in the center of each half-circle of dough Dress the stuffing by folding the other half-circle of dough Weld by pinching the edges Brown with bacon or oil on each side in a very hot pan.

Dolce salata
Sweety salty Ingredients
300 g brocciu. 6 sprigs of fresh mint (36 leaves). 4 strokes of pepper mills. 2 pinches of salt. 1 puff pastry. 1 egg .
Preparation
Prepare the stuffing :In a salad bowl, crumble the brocciu Wash the mint leaves and cut small pieces using scissors Mix the mint with the brocciu Salt and pepper Stuff: Place the puff
Pastry : in a round pie dish Prick it with a fork Place the brocciu and mint preparation on one half Leave one half completely free and 2 cm of dough on the edge of the other half
Close the slipper Separate the white from the yolk of the egg Reserve Cover the "stuffing" starting with the half left free Close the turnover with the remaining 2 cm of dough Use the egg white as "glue" on all the edges of the slipper Draw diagonals, without pressing too much, using the tip of a knife on the top of the slipper Wedge the slipper on the edge of the round dish in order to lean on the latter: it will hold the slipper during cooking Marble
it turnover Halfway through cooking, brush the turnover with the previously salted egg yolk. When the yolk has browned, cover with aluminum foil.

Marmellata di fichi
Fig jam Ingredients
1 vanilla pod. 1 kg of figs. 700 g sugar for jam.
Preparation
Wipe the figs carefully with a clean cloth Cut them into small pieces In a terrine, insert a layer of fruit, a layer of sugar Add the vanilla, split in half lengthwise Leave to macerate for 12 hours Pour the mixture of fruit and sugar in the jam basin Bring to a high heat When boiling begins, count 5 min. cooking time Remove the basin from the heat Let cool and put in a pot immediately This treatment is suitable for all figs, whether black or white This jam goes very well with smoked hams and, of course, goat's cheese.

Fiadone
Fiadone Ingredients
1 tbsp. at s. creme fraiche. 175 g caster sugar. 2 packets of vanilla sugar. 30g of butter. 500 g of fresh brocciu. 6 eggs. Zest and juice of 1 lemon.
Preparation
Preheat the oven to 180° (th. 6) Line the bottom of a springform pan with aluminum foil Butter the parchment paper and place it in the pan Mix all the ingredients in a bowl until smooth a homogeneous preparation. Pour into the mold Bake (th. 6) for 45 min Let the cake cool before unmolding it Decorate with some reserved lemon zest.

No special drinks