Mosaic of peoples, ethnic groups on a multitude of islands...
In November 1995, we left again for Asia with friends we met during a previous trip to Thaïlande, to visit four of the most important islands of this immense archipelago.
The other parts of this Indonesian giant would still give the opportunity for another trip, but for now that seems more than enough!!
The four of us left in our small car to take the plane from Marseille to Paris and then fly to Singapore () with a kerosene (and duty-free) stopover in Dubaï.
The Indonesian airline Garuda is good, but it has a major flaw at that time: the flights were partly smokers and the Indonesians smoke clove-based cigarettes (hell!!).
No city info as this was done on a previous trip to Malaisie.
The continuation is much more interesting after the chip jump to Medan which will only be our landing point.
We then take the road to Bohorok crossing the oil palm plantations.
Early in the morning, departure on foot along the river, which we cross by boat to reach the post of the guards of the reserve.
These rangers will guide us through the jungle to the observatory of the rehabilitation center Orangutans (Text).
We will be able to see them during their meal. After that we take the road to Parapat on Lake Toba (), we take the boat on this lake, a huge expanse of very blue water, located in the crater of an ancient volcano.
In the middle stands the island of Samosir, inhabited by Bataks.
On this island there are several villages including Tomok seat of a necropolis with royal burials, Amabrita and its megalithic court of justice, Simanindo where we visit typical houses before attending traditional dances.
Returning to Medan we stop at Pematang Purba to visit the palace of a former king and stroll through one of the many markets.
Upon our arrival in Jakarta we start with a visit to the Museum of Folk Arts and Traditions and its important collections of objects representing the different regions and ethnic groups of the country.
Also visit the port where we find the famous Bugis () bateaux who commute between the islands.
We then take a quick tour of the city to see some monuments.
Then flight to Jogjakarta () from where we leave quickly to visit the temple of Borobudur () which is one of the oldest (8th century) and the most beautiful Buddhist temples in the world.
This temple impresses both with its extraordinary size and its spiritual dimension.
Return to Jogjakarta for visits to the Bird Market and the Sultan's Palace .
Later we will discover the temple of Prambanan () Hindu sanctuary of an exceptional archaeological richness, but in perpetual work of consolidation.
We then fly to the north.
We arrive with the domestic company Merpati (timetables are not their strong point!!) in Ujung Pandang () also called Makassar , main city in the south of Célèbes.
We visit the city, the orchid garden, the shell house, as well as Fort Rotterdam , a remnant of the Dutch colonial era as its name suggests.
Departure to the Toraja country along the sea to Pare-pare.
From there, continue to Rantepao by a mountain road through lush vegetation and magnificent landscapes.
Rantepao is the "capital" of Tana Toraja (). We then visit all the important sites in the region: Lemou and Londa with the cemeteries dug in the cliff where the bodies of the deceased are placed after periods which can reach 2 years, for lack of money, because the family must be welcomed and fed during the 4 days that the funeral lasts. .... And families are getting into debt!!.
Ke'te Kesu and Nangalla are villages with traditional houses in the shape of boats, with the horns of buffaloes sacrificed during burials in front.
We were able to attend a funeral ceremony, well only a part, because of the duration of the event.
It is advisable to have a strong heart, because the animals (buffaloes, pigs and others) have their throats cut "live" and there is blood everywhere.
Afterwards the meat is shared among all in the community.
In funeral rites, the buffalo is considered the vehicle of the soul and the richer one is, the more buffaloes one passes to death.
For small children who do not yet have their teeth, their bodies are "buried" in the trunk of a tree, which performs the same function as the buffalo.
We then visit a very colorful local market where many animals are sold, even buffaloes, which promised to death will never work and are lovingly cared for until their death.
This animal is the wealth of all these peasants and its horns appear on the pediment of the house of the deceased to whom it was offered as a gift for the sacrifices.
The more horns there are, the more important this house is, but in return it will also have to give buffaloes.
We leave Sulawesi for the enchanting island of Bali where we end our stay by adding a few excursions to avoid staying at the beach or the swimming pool all the time.
Because Bali () is not just sand and waves, the interior of the land is even very interesting, we see how the majority Buddhist population lives in this Muslim country.
You can visit seaside temples, volcanoes with fumaroles, cockfights, villages where time has no influence, dance shows based on religion, Gamalans, a percussion orchestra, whose music embellishes the Chinese shadow shows, finally it there is a lot to see!!
As all good things come to an end, we only have excellent memories before a return trip which promises to be... Long!!
INFORMATIONOctober 28, 2022
Provisions applicable in Indonesia:
It is strongly recommended to check with the consular section of the Indonesian Embassy in Paris the categories of travelers authorized to enter Indonesian territory.
In addition, all foreigners traveling to Indonesia must present a vaccination certificate (full vaccination) in accordance with the vaccination protocol in force in their country of residence and have downloaded the Covid-19 monitoring and tracing application 'PeduliLindungi' on their cell phone.
The passengers can be tested by temperature at their arrival in the airport (in case of the upper temperature in 37,5°C, the passengers will have to perform a test PCR (in their expenses). The passengers having accepted the single dose of vaccine will have to perform quarantine 5 days, in their expenses in a hotel indicated by local authorities. The passengers having a vaccinal schema in 2 or 3 doses are exempted from quarantine. The miners of less than 18 years travelling with their parent (s) or guardian will be subjected to the same rules as these last.
Between the 7th and 14th centuries, several kingdoms appeared on the islands of Sumatra and Java. These maritime empires of "Indo-Buddhist" culture extended from Indonesia and Malaysia to the Philippines.
Society was divided according to India's unequal caste system and later the arrival of Arab merchants had little trouble bringing in Islam which offered a more egalitarian society.
The Europeans arrived in and discovered many small states led by Princes, each with their own sector of activity.
It was only by associating with some of these Princes that the European colonial Empires managed to negotiate and then cultivate spices, the ultimate goal of their research (in the 16th century, a gram of clove was worth more than a gram Golden).
In the 17th century, the Dutch were the dominant colonial power in the region, ahead of the British and the Portuguese. However, the Portuguese controlled Timor. The Dutch of the East India Company had only a commercial purpose in Indonesia and never sought to develop any social or health policy or to want to convert to Christianity; slavery was very widespread and each family of peasants had by decree to give to the Company a part of its harvest under penalty of confiscation of the goods. In Dutch schools, only Indonesians of Chinese origin were tolerated, the others of "Malay" race (the majority) being considered incapable of learning.
Following the bankruptcy of the East India Company, the Dutch government regained possession of the territories in the 19th century. The Crown of Holland, after the Puputan (collective suicide) in Bali in 1910 and the negative echo it had in the West (thanks also to the Nobel Prize for Literature Vicky Baum for her book "Blood and Pleasure in Bali"), decided of a social and educational policy for the Archipelago.
It was the Second World War that put an end to this late momentum. During World War II, Japan invaded and occupied the majority of the islands. at the end of the war in 1945, the Indonesians declared independence led by Sukarno. The Dutch granted independence in 1949 and Sukarno then became the country's first president.
Sukarno dreamed from the beginning of the 1960s of forming a government of national unity bringing together all the political tendencies of the country; in 1964 three ministers who were members of the Indonesian Communist Party (PKI) were appointed. On September 30, 1965, Lieutenant-Colonel Untung, commander of a battalion of Sukarno's personal guard, an officer then unknown and a man of the left, took the head of a Revolutionary Council which claimed to thwart another coup d'etat whose protagonists, six generals and a captain will be tortured and assassinated before dawn on October 1st. General Suharto, then commanding the general reserves of the army, intervened immediately, took over the Post Office and the National Radio and regained power from the rebels within 48 hours.
Very quickly and throughout the country, there followed for months a hunt for the Communists that can be described as genocide (more than 500,000 dead); every city, village or farm underwent cleansing: entire families were executed for hatred of Muslims against atheist communists, for the excess of certain military units or for personal revenge.
On March 11, 1966, Suharto received part of Sukarno's powers and became president a year later. During the 33 years of his unchallenged reign, Suharto and his family grew considerably richer as his country grew increasingly poorer. In 1998, following the Asian economic crisis (the Indonesian currency lost 80% of its value), after numerous demonstrations throughout the country, and pressure from the IMF (International Monetary Fund), Suharto ended up abandoning his post. From 1998 to 2001, the country had four presidents. It was in great pain that East Timor obtained its independence in 2002. The country currently suffers from its economy, its internal politics and religious conflicts.
Added to this are the secessionist movements in North Sumatra (Aceh), in Papua (Irian Jaya) as well as in the Moluccas Archipelago where what can be described as a religious war is taking place between native Christians of a hand and Muslims rushed mainly from Java on the other hand.
Executive power rests with the president and his advisers. The Indonesian parliament is two-headed: it consists of the People's Congress and the People's Representative Assembly, each elected for five years. Indonesia is a member of ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations).
The second round of presidential elections on September 20, 2004 pitted incumbent President Megawati Sukarnoputri of the PDI-P against retired general and former minister Susilo "Bambang" Yudhoyono alias SBY of the Democratic Party. With a turnout of around 80% (or 155 million voters), Susilo “Bambang” Yudhoyono confirms his lead in the first round and will soon be sworn in as president with Mohammed Youssouf Kalla as vice-president.
The state ideology, called “Pancasila” (the five principles), imposes the principle of the existence of a supreme god. So there is no room for atheism.
The 17,000 islands of Indonesia (including 6,000 uninhabited) are distributed around the equator giving this country a tropical climate. The largest islands are Java where nearly half of the population lives, Sumatra, Borneo (which is shared with Malaysia), Irian Jaya (Western part of New Guinea) and the Sulawesi or Celebes archipelago. Indonesia is located in a tectonic friction zone.
Earthquakes are therefore frequent and often followed by tsunamis. The country is also rich in volcanoes with in particular the famous and disappeared Krakatoa. The tsunami of December 26, 2004 caused, according to the provisional assessment of January 19, 2005, 166,320 confirmed deaths.
Indonesia had many economic problems in the late 1990s, but recently the economy seems to be stabilizing. The country has plenty of natural resources such as oil, natural gas, tin, copper and gold. Agriculture mainly produces rice, tea, coffee, spices and rubber.
Indonesia's major economic partners are Japan, the United States of America and neighboring countries such as Singapore and Malaysia. Indonesia is part of the Asia Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC).
The Indonesian population is roughly divided into two groups: the inhabitants of the west of the country are mainly Malays and those of the eastern regions are Papuans. However, the ethnic structure is a little more complex with several traditional tribes living inside the islands of Borneo and Irian Jaya. The Chinese are also a large minority (around 2 to 3 million) and often suffer from difficult integration into the local population.
Islam is the dominant religion in the country, adopted by 87% of the population. The other religions are Christianity (9%), Buddhism (2%) and Hinduism (1%), the latter being mainly practiced on the island of Bali. The rise of religious fundamentalist currents coupled with economic problems have often instrumentalized tensions that have tensed on ethnic and religious lines.
The Christian and Chinese minorities suffered from this policy of scapegoating, particularly in the Moluccas The official language Indonesian or Bahasa Indonesia, derived from Malay, is spoken by almost everyone although many dialects are used locally in primary language.
Source : Wikipedia
Like all of Asia in general, it is better to leave at the end of October until the beginning of May because of the monsoon, except Bali which is reversed compared to the other islands.
In general, international airlines are pretty good, but I'm more wary of domestic routes. Roads and infrastructure are quite good.
Rice is the staple, of course, and the national dish goes by the name of nasi goreng: fried rice with eggs, small pieces of meat and vegetables, or shrimp. Food varies by island. In terms of accommodation, the island is very well endowed and the offer far exceeds the demand.
There is a vast choice, difficult to make a description with all that there is. Sarongs, puppets, silks, paintings, wood carvings, etc... Compulsory haggling.