The land of a million elephants...
We decided this year (1996) to leave with a new tour operator Ariane Tours, advised by our travel agent friend Gérard, to direct us to two quite different places: Laos a country which is opening up a little and which has a lot to show and another who is trying to forget the tragedy he has just experienced in Cambodia and then we will end our journey of three weeks of idleness in Pukhet in southern Thailand.
As usual, we left Marseille to Paris from where we took a Thai Airways plane for a direct flight to Bangkok. From there, still with this company, another take-off to our final destination, which was interrupted due to a violent storm and forced us to land in Udon Thani and stay there for 3 hours.
This interlude over, we resume our journey to Vientiane (), the country's capital.
We started our tour there by visiting the city and its old French quarters and the various temples that are located there.
The best known is the Pha That Luang national monument, Wat Si Saket has hundreds of Buddha statues arranged two by two in hundreds of niches all over the interior wall.
This city is adorable to visit because there is no traffic jam, no overcrowding, so no pollution and a walk in the evening on the banks of the Mekong is great, just like this oldest hotel in Vientiane le Lane Xang Hotel (it dates from the French colonial era) where we spent the night in a suite (free!!!) with a view of the river.
After a last look at Anousavari (the triumphal arch), we leave for this extraordinary city that is Luang Prabang ().
It's a real open-air museum!.
It takes several days to visit the city and its surroundings.
The first site is visible from everywhere in the city, it is Mount Phou-Si , because it dominates the whole city and the point of view is magnificent on the Mekong river and the Nam Khan river (when we passed, there was still a gun carriage there).
The rest of the city is mainly made up of temples (or Wat): Soukharam, Mai , Hosiam Voravihane, Mahathat , Pa Phai, Xieng Mouane, Thioum Kong, these are the most important along the main street.
On this street there is also a former royal palace, a house of a princess and the post office (it's written in French).
There is also a small market in the morning where you can see mountain people (tribes from the highlands) chatting or selling some products.
Near Luang Prabang, you reach the Pak Ou cave by the river () which contains about 4000 statues of various sizes (no one really knows the reason for this storage) and it's a real labyrinth to try to see the maximum.
On the way back, stop on the edge of the river to taste the rice alcohol made in old barrels made from fermented rice (hot rice alcohol is the violent, brutal kind!!).
Before leaving the city, we took part in the Baci ceremony and in gratitude, the guide advised us to make an offering (a bouquet of flowers) in a temple in front of hilarious monks in front of our lack of technique and especially of practice.
Then we stopped in different villages, to see weaving, pottery or crafts (beautiful and cheap, they export almost everything to Thailand).
We took the plane (during our stay we never had any roads, which were dangerous because they were victims of regular attacks by Mhong rebels!!) to visit the Plain of Jars ().
A personal opinion, see the stone jars in one hour maximum and then you are stuck until the next day because there is only one flight per day and in the evening the light is cut off at night. Very funny or not!!.
The highlight of the trip is around Pakse (), more precisely in Tad Lo that we have experienced.
After a brief visit to the village, we found ourselves in bungalows on the edge of a torrent in the middle of the jungle.
In the morning, when you wake up, you take a walk on the balcony and it overlooks small falls and that's when you are picked up by elephant for breakfast. Another world !!!!
A great day because the elephant remained almost all the time with us in the visit of the region.
INFORMATIONAugust 2nd, 2022
Conditions of entrance on the Laotian territory
Laotian authorities decided on the reopening of the country as from May 9th, 2022. Following ceremonies are instituted:
> The passengers subjected to visas have to subject their request to a Laotian presentation abroad or at arrival in frontier post in Laos;
> The 12-year-old passengers and more not having a full vaccinal schema have to introduce the result of an antigénique test quick ATK of less than 48 hours before their departure;
> Les voyageurs présentant un schéma vaccinal complet sont exemptés de présentation du résultat d’un test COVID-19.
The history of Laos goes back to distant times, before our era, as demonstrated by the enigmatic remains of the Plain of Jars. Around the 5th century AD. an influence of the primitive Khmer kingdoms is felt and through them the Hindu civilization then the Buddhism of the Dvaravati civilization
The site of Vat Phou, in the south of the country, dates back to this time. Around the 12th century, the country's history really begins with the arrival of Thai populations arriving from southern China. In 1333, Lane Xang, land of a million elephants, was founded. Buddhism is established definitively.
Over the centuries, the kingdom is consolidated, Vientiane becomes the capital in 1520, the kingdom of Chiang Mai is annexed, it is the apogee of Lane Xang. The 17th and 18th centuries will be more agitated, the kingdom is fragmented, the provinces come under Burmese, Chinese or Thai domination, in 1778 Vientiane is taken by the Thai kingdom.
Laos then passed under the control of Siam (Thailand) which dominated the three kingdoms until the 19th century. In 1893 the action of the vice-consul of France in Luang Pragang, Auguste Pavie, as well as a blockade of the coasts forced Siam to cede the left bank of the Mekong then to sign treaties (1902, 1904) recognizing the protectorate of the France on Laos.
It was finally integrated into the French Indochinese Union in 1899. In 1904, began the long reign of Sisavang Vong which lasted until 1959. Japanese occupation (1940-1945). During World War II, Japan imposed its domination over French Indochina, including Laos.
France being at the time governed by Vichy, this domination was exercised indirectly, the French administrators remained in office and the tricolor flag continued to float over Vientiane. In 1941, Thailand, an ally of Japan, only imposed on France to cede the territories west of the Mekong.
Until 1945, French Indochina was little affected by the fighting, but when the Japanese realized that they were going to lose the war, they sought to prevent the return of the European colonial powers and favored the independence which was proclaimed on 8 April 1945 by King Sisavang Vong (under Japanese pressure).
The communist rebellion does not disarm, supported by the Viet Minh against the tottering power supported by the United States. A ceasefire intervened on February 22, 1973 and in 1975 the communist movement of Pathet Lao overthrew King Savang Vatthana and took power.
King Savang Vatthana and Queen Khamphoui abdicated on December 2, 1975. The king, queen and heir to the throne died in an internment camp. The Democratic People's Republic of Laos (RPDL) is created with a one-party regime, causing the exile of approximately 300,000 people, or 10% of the population.
A period of cooperation with the USSR was followed from 1988 by a desire for relative openness to the modern economy. King Savang Vatthana's youngest son, Sauryavong Savang, becomes regent of the kingdom and president of the royal family in exile on behalf of heir to the throne Prince Soulivong Savan
President of the Lao People's Democratic Republic, Khamtay Siphandone. Prime Minister, Bougnang Vorachit. Parliament, Speaker of the Chamber, Samane Vignaketh. Political regime with a single party. The PRPL (Lao People's Revolutionary Party). The President of the Republic is elected by Parliament for 5 years.
Government policy is determined by the Party through the Politburo and the Central Committee. The Hmong ethnic group in the north of the country is in armed struggle against the communist regime which has oppressed them since 1975 because of their choice to fight alongside the United States during the Vietnam War.
In Vientiane, on the other hand, the Hmongs are integrated into society and some hold high positions in the state apparatus. The opposition in exile regularly denounces the human rights violations committed against the Hmongs in the Saysouboune area.
Attacks sporadically shake the country, without it being possible to attribute them to a specific political movement. Laos has been a member of ASEAN since July 23, 1997. (Association of Southeast Asian Nations). It hosted, for the first time, the ASEAN summit from November 24 to December 1, 2004 in Vientiane.
Laos has been a member of ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations) since July 23, 1997. For the first time, it hosted the ASEAN summit from November 24 to December 1, 2004 in Vientiane.
Laos is located between the 14th and the 22nd parallel north. Its area is 236,800 km2. It has a border with China (200 km), Burma (150 km), Thailand (1000 km), Vietnam (1000 km), and Cambodia (150 km). Mountains and plateaus occupy more than 70% of the country.
Watered by the Mekong, not very navigable because of its irregular flow (1898 km in Laos on a total route of 4200 km), which largely forms the border with Thailand. The country extends from north to south over 1,000 km from the confines of China to the border of Cambodia.
It sometimes only reaches a hundred kilometers wide. Laos is made up of mountains and high plateaus. PHOU BIA is the highest point of the Annamite Cordillera (2820 m. XIENG-KHOUANG region). The Annamite mountain range forms the main part of the border with Vietnam to the east.
Highest point: Mount Rao Co, 2286 m. Hot and humid climate Tropical climate characterized by monsoons. 2 seasons. Dry season from October to April, rainy season from May to September. 15/20° in Dec-January, 30° in March-April. October and November can be rainy. Forest covers 52.8% of the country.
Laos is one of the poorest countries on the planet. In recent years, even if the economy remains dependent on international aid, there has been a very clear improvement in the growth rate - around 8.3% in 2012 (7.9% expected in 2013).
The economy of Laos is characterized by huge disparities between regions. Most of the economic activity is located near the border areas.
Laos is now one of the countries in Asia with the most liberal regulations for the entry and exit of capital. Over the past 10 years, Vietnam, China and Thailand have dominated, in that order, the landscape of foreign investors. France ranks first among Western countries with however amounts 6 to 10 times lower than those of the members of this triumvirate... This complete reversal was first reinforced by the accession of Laos to ASEAN (Association Southeast Asian nations) in 1997.
In 2010, the Vientiane Stock Exchange was established. A revolution for this country with a planned economy! Then, at the end of 2012, the country joined the WTO (World Trade Organization) after long negotiations. This could eventually allow it to live less under the thumb of its three powerful neighbors, a situation not without risk for the de facto independence of the country.
The continuation of reforms, accelerated by entry into the WTO and its procession of conditions, remains necessary to allow the country to establish itself durably within the emerging countries.
Various religions coexist in Laos, placed under the authority of the Lao National Building Front (FLEN), a structure set up by the communist government to regulate the religious activities and traditions of ethnic minorities. Most religious communities coexist in harmony.
Most Laotians are of the Buddhist faith (Small Vehicle Buddhism, or Theravada Buddhism. Animist rites are however very widespread in the country, especially among minority ethnic groups, but have been integrated into the Buddhist cult.
Laos has more than 5,000 pagodas and about 22,000 monks, 9,000 of whom are permanent clergy. To this must be added a total of about 450 nuns (most often widows). Most Laotians become monks once in their life, for a period that varies from one week to almost their entire life.
Christians (Catholics, Protestants and Mormons) make up about 2% of the population. The FLEN distinguishes them within the religious category "Church of Jesus Christ". The Catholic Church has approximately 35,000 faithful, often of Vietnamese origin. There are three bishops in Laos, based in Vientiane, Pakse and Thakhek.
Protestants have around 60,000 followers, particularly among the Hmong, Yao and Khmer ethnic groups. There are other religious minorities, such as Islam, Confucianism, the Baha'i faith and Mahayana Buddhism. Very few Laotians are atheists or agnostics.
Source : Wikipedia
Like all of Asia in general, it is better to leave at the end of October until the beginning of May because of the monsoon.
the main cross roads linking Thailand to Vietnam are paved and of good quality. However, most of the 15,000 km of the network remain dirt or gravel tracks. These are more or less passable in the rainy season (mud, deep ruts) and, the rest of the year, depending on the repair work carried out. The plane remains the most practical and fastest means of transport to move within Laos.
Lao food is close to Thai cuisine but is characterized by the use of even more aromatic herbs. In Vientiane and Luang Prabang, there are all categories of accommodation, from the family guesthouse to the 3-4 star hotel and elsewhere you can have good surprises (Tad Lo for example!!)
Weaving is the most widespread and typical element, one can also find beautiful objects carved in wood or horn, more rarely in stone. Laos has a very rich tradition of goldsmithery and also at a lower cost, very beautiful examples of peasant basketry.